Jan 10 2012

Dunlop GCB-95 Cry Baby Modification – True Bypass

True bypass for the Dunlop GCB-95 Crybaby@mojosarmy sent me a tweet letting me know he posted a video where he modified his Dunlop GCB-95 Cry Baby to be true bypass. This is a great 2 part modification that I did to my wah a couple of years ago (I also changed the inductor, changed the pot to an ICAR taper pot and added a LED).

For those of you interested in tweaking pedals, this is a great project that covers a lot of the fundamentals and something that will definitely get your hands dirty. The first part of the modification is to replace the footswitch with a 3PDT footswitch. That will get your switching ready for the true bypass, but you must follow that up with the PCB mod. Changing the footswitch alone will NOT make this true bypass. That is because the signal is buffered in the circuit after the input signal. The goal is to route the input signal to the footswitch then back to the circuit. That is the second mod. The second modification involves cutting a trace on the board and hard wiring a lead from the board to the footswitch.

Mojo did a great job showing all the steps as well as explaining what all needs to be done. For further information, especially if you’re PCB board in the wah doesn’t look like Mojo’s, check out this GREAT page – True bypass for the Dunlop GCB-95 Crybaby That pages shows the trace cut on various revisions of the board (Rev F, G, H & I). Thanks Mojo for letting me know about your vid!

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Nov 27 2011

Guest Post: Turning your laptop (or any PC) into a make-shift effects pedal

The following is a guest post by Nick Williams of IHateBarreChords.com. If you are interested in guest posting, please contact me!

Guitarists from many musical genres – perhaps most notably the rock scene – have used to various effects to give their music a unique sound. Simple effects like distortion give rock music its distinct “crunching” sound – a non-musical friend of mine describes it as grinding metal – while “wah-wah” (popularized by Hendrix) and other odd effects do strange things to an electric guitar’s sound that can’t really be put into words. Finding out what the various effects sound like is easy enough, with some help from YouTube, but typically you need an electronic device called an effects pedal (or distortion pedal or some other variant) to achieve these sounds through your own playing

These pedals are often – though not always – pretty expensive. Their prices can rival that of the guitars themselves and this can make them seem somewhat inaccessible – at least in the short term. Being in such a situation personally, I was determined to find a way to experiment with all the possible effects while I saved up to buy a proper pedal and did quite a lot of digging to find a way to do so – though it wasn’t nearly as hard as I expected.

1/4 inch to 3.5 mm jackThe first thing I needed (and that you need if you want to use a computer to mess around with effects) is a 1/4 inch to 3.5 mm jack – aka a little connector that lets you put the end of your guitar cable into one end and plug the 3.5 mm extension on the other side into the mic jack of your computer. In short, you’re routing your guitar signal directly into your laptop instead of running it through an amplifier*.

Next you’ll need a software application called Gnuitar. I’m a Linux user so I went looking for a cross-platform solution that works on both Windows and Linux (and I think Mac as well). It’s free and it requires no setting up whatsoever (other than selecting your effects). You just need to connect your guitar to your laptop (or any computer) as explained above and run the application. You’ll see a start button that will trigger the program to start outputting the incoming guitar signal through the speakers. Finally, you’ll notice a very diverse set of effects to choose from : (i)  two different distortion settings (ii) tremolo (iii) whammy (iv) wah-wah (v) reverb (vi) chorus and so on – plus some filters to help weed out any unwanted noise.

gnuitarThat’s it! Your computer now works as a distortion/effects pedal and all you need is a little 1/4 inch to 3.5 mm adapter that costs about one dollar and maybe an extra cable (see below). You can now mess around with all the cool effects you’ll be able to rock out to with an actual pedal (and hopefully be more motivated to save up and invest in one). I should point out that the software effects sound great but they don’t compare to an effects pedal dedicated to the purpose and it does sound pretty artificial when compared side-by-side with an authentic piece of quality gear. Still, it’s great for experimenting with different sounds and practicing when an actual pedal isn’t handy.

Laptop is ready* You might need to run it through your amplifier before running it into the mic jack on your computer (thus requiring an extra guitar cable) depending on how strong (or not) the signal from your guitar pick-ups is (and the thickness of your strings). If you have to do this, be VERY careful to turn the amplifier up only as much as necessary so the software can pick-up the signal and process it. It’s very possible to damage your sound card by feeding it too much signal from the amplifier so use only as much as you need and you’ll be fine. You probably won’t even need to run it through your amp though. :)

I hope you enjoyed this post as much as I enjoyed writing it – and I hope my guide works for you. If for some reason you have trouble, you can email me at adminatihatebarrechordsdotcom and I’ll do my best to help you out. On that note, I’d love it if you visited my guitar forum or just checked out my website. :)

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Nov 12 2011

Keith McMillen Batt-o-Meter

Keith McMillen Batt-o-MeterOkay, so a friend of mine pointed this cool tool to me. It’s the Keith McMillen Batt-O-Meter. In a nutshell, it’s a battery tester, but why I’m bringing this up.. it’s super convenient with pedals and active pickups. Basically plug in the 1/4″ jack into the pedal and it will tell you the status of your battery. Don’t have to take the battery out, etc. As you can see… very cool.

Here is the official description of the Batt-O-Meter:

The Batt-O-Meter from Keith McMillen Instruments is the first battery tester for musicians. Test the remaining hours of battery life and voltage of 9 volt batteries while they are still inside gear through a 1/4-inch plug. The Batt-O-Meter works with almost any active instrument pickup or effects unit (stompboxes and other floor effects) that requires a 9 volt battery to operate, and is turned on when a standard 1/4-inch cable is plugged into it. The Batt-O-Meter works by automatically placing the battery under an appropriate load to simulate real world usage. A micro-processor within the unit allows the device to intelligently determine the different loads that can be put on the battery and calculate the power in hours remaining. This eliminates the need for extra buttons and adaptors, and makes the Batt-O-Meter simple to use. The Batt-O-Meter can test stand-alone batteries: 9V, 1.5V (AAA, AA), and 3V. It works with Alkaline, Rechargable, and old school Carbon-Zinc batteries. The Batt-O-Meter requires its own 9 volt for operation, which it can self-test. Located in Berkeley, California, Keith McMillen Instruments (KMI) is an intimate company that makes innovative technology for string instruments. A portion of each KMI sale is donated to the BEAM Foundation for research and provide commissions for new musical works. Visit www.Batt-O-Meter.com for more product information, including videos, documentation and support.

Also, here is a great video showing it’s capability:

You usually see this tester in the $30-$40 range, but I found it on Amazon for only $19.87!!! That’s a great deal.

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Nov 9 2011

Interview with Blake Studdard of Mammoth Electronics

For a while there, I was REALLY into working on pedals. Unfortunately, my work has really consumed my available pedal time, and that is something that is getting on my nerves, and something that will hopefully change soon. My bench is right next to my office, so I’m always reminded about how much I enjoy working on pedals for my music buddies out there. Working on pedals is very empowering. It’s a good feeling to ‘fix’ something … in this ‘throw away’ mentality these days. Once you know how to fix things, the requests start pouring in from friends with broken footswitches and wiring.

Interview with Blake Studdard of Mammoth Electronics
Then the next logical step is to build something. Probably from a kit but you might be get into breadboarding, etc. Playing with circuits is fantastic. Seeing cause-and-effect and being able to manipulate it by experimentation. Very cool. When you work with pedals one of the big challenges is sourcing parts. It can be a pain, especially if you’re working on vintage circuits and trying to find compatible values to those older schematics. Availability and pricing can be an issue too. Personally, I’ve been buying parts from several electronic sites, but it was really great to see Mammoth Electronics.

Mammoth Electronics is a great new site for providing pedal parts out there. They also offer kits and offer some services such as silk screening and enclosure drilling. I had a chance to send some questions to Blake, President of Mammoth Electronics:

What inspired you to start Mammoth Electronics?
Playing in numerous bands and the local studio scene, I was a gear-head and effects-junky from pedals to rackmount gear, and began trying to build my own pedals with alot of trial and error. I found that there was a tremendous amount of knowledge out on the web and in forums and blogs, but it was hard to find a parts source that was reliable, consistent and easy to navigate so I thought, “maybe i should do that.”

How long has Mammoth Electronics been in business?
It will be 2 years this December.

Where are you located? Is this a web shop only? Or do you have a brick and mortar presence as well?
We are centrally located in Oklahoma USA and we are not currently open to the public, but possibly one day. We shall see?!

What separates you from the other electronic component or pedal part outfits out there?
There are some great companies that are out there and each offers a unique selection of parts and knowledge. What we offer is a seamless and easy-to-navigate shopping experience with a large selection of enclosures, colors and drill-layouts as well as great sounding DIY pedal kits and all the supplies necessary to build high quality and great looking pedals. While we are geared toward the DIY guys and small-run manufacturers, we have a deep inventory to efficiently supply larger pedal, audio and amp manufacturers.  Consequently,  because of our bulk purchasing with suppliers, weare able to pass on the price savings to our smaller customers so everybody wins.

How is the world of DIY/MIY and boutique builds? Is the field growing and the demand rising?
The demand is there and growing. With knowledge and parts becoming more available, we are seeing a large number of new-to-the-market customers. Alot of guys want the experience of literally “building” and “crafting” their own sound. They want to put their signature audio circuit into a box that they can customize with paint color, knobs and artwork and put on display for others to see and hear. It’s a satisfying experience to hear another performing musician play a lick through an effect pedal that you built and to know you had a piece in that. Some customers have the ambition of selling thousands of units a year and others simply want to build a few units a year. I think the other driving factor for the DIY community has been the downturn in the economy and the subsequent effect on peoples wallets.  Why pay $200 for an overdrive pedal when you can easily build it yourself for 1/3 of the price and as a plus, you get the ability to choose the size of the enclosure, color of enclosure, color of LED and the type of knobs? The DIY effects market just makes sense in a cash-strapped economy.

Do you offer some vintage NOS components?
We have some vintage NOS stock. We have been asked to carry more and from time to time we will bring in some vintage parts, especially chips. We get alot of requests for old Bucket Brigade chips, but since there is a surplus of counterfeits out there, we are careful what we bring into our stock.

With the limited supplies of vintage transistors and capacitors, etc., are there *really* comparative components that can achieve same/similar tones?
Absolutely. To the average consumer, most wouldn’t be able to tell the difference in vintage transistors and caps. It is sweet every once in a while when you hear a vintage mullard yellow-jacket OC44 next to a clone or cross-part. Nothing really compares to the old stuff and if price is not in the equation, then by all means, get the old stuff. But, we’ve tried to do our best to partner with manufacturers that are still making replicas to the same specifications of the old stuff. We carry the CoolAudio Bucket brigade delay chips that have replaced the old Panasonic BBD. We also carry a line of germanium and silicon transistors that are made to the original mullard spec by a North American military transistor manufacturer.

What are the components you see flying off the shelf at a regular basis?
Our customers really like our 3PDT (true bypass) foot switches as well as our micro toggle switches. Alot of the switches out on the market are China junk, but our supplier, 4Site Electronics, makes some high quality switches. Our enclosures are a big seller as well. The ability to customize drilling and powder coat and still ship same or next-day makes it really favorable for our customers that want a high quality enclosure with a quick turnaround. Consumables are another big one. We sell alot of wire, solder and bare circuit boards.

What is the most popular enclosure out there in demand? Any reasons why?
The 4S125B, 4S1590B and 4S1590BB are the big sellers and recently the 4S1590BBT (Taller version of the 1590BB) are selling very consistently. Some builders want to maximize real estate on their pedal boards so they opt for the smaller 4S1590B, some want the ability to put 10 toggles and potentiometers in a single box so they will stuff them into a 4S1590BB or 4S1590BBT. For alot of our beginner DIY guys, we recommend the larger enclosures (4S125B and 4S1590BB) simply because it is easy to maneuver the components and wire inside the enclosure.

Do you offer enclosure painting.. or silkscreening?
Yes. We do offer powder coating and silkscreening.

Do you offer pre-drilled enclosures?
Yes, we have a huge selection of pre-drilled options and are always adding more at our customers’ requests.

For people interested in pedal building, kits are a great way to get started. Do you offer any kits? If so, what kit do you recommend for someone interested in building?
For a first-time / beginner build, the Stage 3 Booster is very simple and sounds incredible. After that, the Hot Chilicon Fuzz, the ODC Overdrive and the EA tremelo are very simple builds with dynamic audio quality.

Do you offer any give aways (ie: components, enclosures, kits, etc?)
Multiple times a week, we have awesome giveaways, from effects pedals and kits to parts and enclosures. Our facebook page is the place to be to find out about the giveaways and its super easy to win. We also have daily deals that occur multiple times per week and its a great opportunity to pickup some great parts at a ridiculously low price.

Anything new coming down the pipe that you’re excited about?
The pipeline is definitely full with new and exciting products.  We have some new kits that are coming in the next few months, including a delay. In response to our Amplifier guys, we are going to be bringing on a full line of caps, transistors, resistors and pots as well as the hardware, boards, sockets and consumables. There are a few other irons in the fire that I’m not at liberty to discuss, but I am certainly excited about the direction Mammoth is heading and the community of engineer-artists that we get to partner with.

Please check out Mammoth Electronics at their website and like them on Facebook!

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Sep 20 2011

Thunderdrive Deluxe Pedal Build Demonstration

The Thunderdrive Deluxe Overdrive Effects Pedal KitI just received an email from Orin (ModKitsDIY) letting me know about a demo video they put together of assembling one of their great pedal kits. This is the Thunderdrive Deluxe pedal. This video is a quick time lapse video showing the assembly process. It really gets me jonzing to build something, it’s been far too long since my last project!

The Thunderdrive Deluxe is available for $39.95 at their store. The deluxe model is the same as the standard Thunderdrive overdrive ($29.95) with the exception of having a “turbo” switch. You can view their other pedals here. If you’re looking to get your hands dirty with effects, a kit is a great way to get started!!!

Here is the video by amplifiedparts:

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Jun 28 2011

Joe Strummer Telecaster pickup swap out

I was working on a fun project for a friend of mine. My friend had a Joe Strummer Fender Artist Series Telecaster, but he was unhappy with the pickups. We talked about pickups over a year ago, so I contacted Brian at Porter Pickups and he hooked me up with a Standard Telecaster set. My friend and myself were excited to get them in.

A few nights later he swung by my house to get them installed. I’ve installed humbuckers in various guitars, and swapped out pickups on my Stratocaster, but this would be my first Tele job. I was psyched to work on something different, so this was a great opportunity. When learning something new, I find doing a search first on YouTube to be very handy. I found this great video to keep me out of trouble when taking apart the Tele by SeymourDuncanChannel:

What I liked about the video, was the experience this guy showed. When you do things more often, you usually tend to learn to do it faster and better and avoid common mistakes that would make you back track or slow down. His first point was using a set of digital calipers. I love my calipers, and if you don’t own one, you should really think about it. Totally removes the guess work.. in just about everything. I love my calipers! To remove the bridge plate, you need to push the saddles forward so the screws can be removed. By measuring and writing down the values of the saddles, it’ll get you back in the game as far as intonation goes when you put bridge back. Again, smarter vs. harder. I love it. He also talks about using something to cover your work area on the guitar so you don’t mare the guitar when unscrewing/screwing screws. Definitely important to not cause damage when you’re trying to actually fix something.

The telecaster swap out was easy, but it is definitely more involved than a Stratocaster. There are more pieces to remove and is more difficult getting the wires routed, but overall, it was easy. The first step for me was to replace the neck pickup. I took note of what lug the signal lead was connected to the switch and where the ground needed to be connected. After completing that, I went to the bridge. The original bridge had a two connections for ground. One to the bridge plate and that hopped to the main ground connection, so I connected the ground of the pickup to the bridge plate connection.

Once everything was soldered, I tested. I think it’s pretty critical to test before everything is locked down! Pretty obvious right?  After getting the pickguard re-secured. I tested again. After adjusting pickup heights and securing the bridge plate, I tested again. I wanted to make sure that I did not break a connection during the reassembly, and if I did, I would probably have an idea as to what caused it.

Below is a photo of the Telecaster with the pickguard, bridge plate and pickups removed.

Joe Strummer Telecaster pickup swap out

Here is a photo of the completed pickup swap out with new Porter Pickups

Joe Strummer Telecaster pickup swap out

So we plugged this guy into my amp, and pickups sound AWESOME. If you’re looking for swapping out your pickups, I would highly recommend contacting Porter Pickups. Hot damn.

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Jun 7 2011

Installing Strat Pickups – Guest Post by Brian Porter!

The following a guest post by Brian Porter of Porter Pickups. The guest post is a very detailed procedure on how to replace pickups in your Fender Strat! If you’re looking to change/replace pickups, please take a look at Porter Pickups, he makes some fantastic pickups that are starting to find themselves in boutique guitars and in guitars of musicians looking to improve their tone. Check out PorterPickups.com for sound clips and make sure you follow them on Twitter and Facebook.

If you are interested in guest posting or submitting a guest review, please contact me!

Installing Strat Pickups. Step by step for putting new pickups in a strat style guitar.

Tools for the Job:
-25-40Watt Soldering Iron-Solder
-Phillips Screwdriver
-String Winder
-Tweezers (Optional)
-Wire Cutters
Tools for the Job
Remove the Strings

String Winders can save some time here.

Remove the Strings
Remove Pickguard Screws

Remove all screws around the perimeter of the pickguard. Don’t touch the pickup or selector switch screws yet. If the strings can’t get out of the holes in the backplate, you might need to remove this as well.

Remove Pickguard Screws
Keep Screws in a Safe Place

Put all the pickguard screws in a safe place, so you don’t lose them. Nothing like having a pickguard with one missing screw!

Keep Screws in a Safe Place
Pickguard is off…. Pickguard is off
Flip Pickguard Over….

It will still be attached with the jack wires, and the ground wire to the bridge, so make sure you carefully turn it over and don’t pull too hard on it.

Flip Pickguard Over
Find where the wires go

One wire from each pickup will go the the selector switch…

Usually the white or “hot” from the pickup. In this case, the middle pickups “Hot” is yellow.

Find where the wires go
And one wire from each pickup will be soldered to the back of the volume pot….

The black wires from the pickups will be the “ground”

Refer to wiring diagrams from places like www.guitarelectronics.com to make sure everything will go back in the right place. Watch where the neck, middle and bridge wires connect to the switch!

And one wire from each pickup will be soldered to the back of the volume pot
Unsolder Old Pickups

Touch your soldering iron to the metal portion of the switch. The solder will heat up, and you can remove the wires from the old pickups. Eye protection is a good idea here.

Unsolder Old Pickups
Repeat the same process and unsolder black ground wires from the back of the volume pot… Repeat the same process
Wires are now off!

Time for some new tone!

Wires are now off!
Remove old pickups from pickguard

Unscrew the pickups from each side, and keep the existing screws for mounting the pickups (We’ll use these again)

Remove old pickups from pickguard
Pickups are out! Pickups are out!
Spring or Tube?

Many Pickups come with either a spring or a tube. We prefer to use the tube for pickup mounting, but you can use the same springs from the old pickups if you would like.

Spring or Tube?
New pickups ready

We’re installing our Porter 1960′s Strat pickups for this one.

New pickups ready
Time to give this guitar a great new sound…. Time to give this guitar a great new sound....
Install new Pickups

Spring tube shown here with the cover on

Install new Pickups
It compresses and works to raise and lower the pickup height…

For now, just make sure the pickups are sticking above the pickguard, we’ll fine tune the height later.

It compresses and works to raise and lower the pickup height...
Pickups in! Pickups in!
Tape wires

To make a neat wire path

Tape wires
Route the black ground wires

Pull them past the bridge pickup, and tape them together near the volume pot.

Route the black ground wires
Cut black wires to length

Remember, they will solder to the back of the volume pot, so cut them near the middle of the volume pot.

Cut black wires to length
Prep wires for soldering

Here we are using vintage style cloth “push back” wire. You can push back the outer cloth to reveal the wire inside. For other plastic coated pickup wires, you.ll need to use a wire stripper. Leave about 1/4″ for soldering.

Prep wires for soldering
Solder to volume pot

Put some solder on your wires before soldering to the back of the volume pot. This will make the connection easier. You might also need to put some more solder on the volume pot. Heat up the solder with your iron, and attach all three wires. Tweezers come in hand here since the wires can get hot.

Solder to volume pot
Solder wires to switch

Repeat the cutting, push back/ stripping of the white (Hot) wires and solder them to the appropriate lugs of the 5-way switch. Refer to a wiring diagram if you get lost. In this picture it is Bridge, Middle, Neck (Left to right)

Solder wires to switch
Check your wiring job

Turn the pickguard over and tap on the pickup magnets with your screwdriver to make sure they are making a sound at the right positions (1-5 on the selector switch). Shown here is the checking of the bridge pickup. If the neck and bridge are backwards, you can reverse the wires on your selector switch.

Check your wiring job
If it works right , put it back together

Put in all the pickguard screws, and restring the guitar. After you have the strings on and can play it a bit, adjust the pickups heights to taste. Usually a nice balance between all three pickups volume wise is a good idea. Some people like the bridge “hotter” so they will raise that pickup higher than the other.

If it works right , put it back together

Enjoy your new pickups Often times a great playing guitar can be upgraded with new pickups for a lot less than buying a new guitar. If you have questions about pickups, please visit us online at www.porterpickups.com

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Jun 4 2011

Line 6 Footswitch Modification/Replacement Tutorial

Line 6 Footswitch Modification/Replacement TutorialA few days ago I posted about the Line 6 M5 Stompbox modeler. On Facebook, there was one mention of how the footswitches were really not that great. Basically spring switches making direct contact to switch pad on the circuit board. Seems like problems could crop up with this, and could be an explanation as to why my Line 6 DL4 has been acting up.

After that comment, another user mentioned that he swapped out his footswitches and his pedals are working fine now. He provided a great link to a video where Juffage breaks down a Line 6 DL4 and shows step by step how to replace these spring switches with momentary switches. This would apply to other Line 6 boxes like the M5… but please… proceed at your own risk.. and know your limitations and capabilities before attempting.

 

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May 23 2011

Introducing shotgunnmods, LLC and EHX Micro Synth mod

shotgunnmods, LLS - EHX Micro Synth ModA few months ago I stumbled across a very interesting video which featured a guy with his mod of the Electro-Harmonix Micro Synth. Later I came to find out it was Michael Dunn of shotgunnmods doing the wizardry on the micro synth. shotgunnmods specializes in the EHX micro synth mod, but also does some very impressive work on Piezo bridge/saddle mods as well as other pedal mods.

First, I want to showcase the video (shotgunndunn) I saw a while back. I really dig his enthusiasm and you can really see he enjoys electronics, and tweaking in general.

I sent Michael an email with a small mini-interview and he was kind enough to respond. I have to say, I really enjoyed his answers!

- So explain to me what shotgunnmods does exactly?
At shotgunnmods I specialize in high profile guitar, pedal, and amp mods.  For the guitar my biggest innovation is offering piezo mods for virtually ANY type of bridge. In the pedal domain my claim to fame is the EHX Micro Synth expression pedal mod.

- What got you interested in electronics?
My father was my inspiration for getting into electronics.  As a child, him and I worked on everything together from car audio, home theater, and various electronic repairs.  It was these experiences that got me burning with passion for electronics, specifically audio electronics.

- How long has shotgunnmods been around?
While I have been involved in the field for close to 20 I started doing this for a profit in January of 2009. In October of 2009 was when I became a legitimate legal entity known as shotgunnmods, LLC.

- What got you interested in the EHX Micro Synth?
I have always loved 60′s and 70′s rock music.  Big, fat, analog, etc…  I wanted my guitar to have similar ‘weight’ issues…  I first tried the EHX Micro Synth back in 2000. I fell in love with it.  It made me have to think differently as a player. I kind of like that ‘stiff’ feel the pedal offered.  Yet, I always wanted more.

- What got you interested in Piezo mods?
I heard a guitar in a local guitar shop that had a piezo bridge installed.  Before I actually realized what it was my mind totally thought it was an acoustic guitar.  It was actually several years before I first experimented with anything piezo related.  I soon found out about companies like L.R. Baggs, and GraphTech. I found out that each had some options for the most popular type of bridges/saddles.  Being an Ibanez player I was feeling left out.  So I bought a milling machine and converted it into a full blown CNC mill.  I can now turn virtually any saddle into a piezo saddle.  My biggest accomplishments with this have been the Ibanez ZR, Edge III, Lo-Pro Edge, Original Edge, and the Floyd Rose piezo mods.  With these mods the player can have authentic acoustic guitar simulations with the flip of a switch. Once the piezos are installed in the saddles you can feed the signal into GraphTech Hexpander (s) for full MIDI triggering.  The results are utterly mind blowing.  I have a YouTube video demonstrating this on an Ibanez RG-2228.  All 8 strings able to channel MIDI notes!!!  I have several other bridges on deck for the future.  The Kahler being my next priority.

- What other pedals do you mod.. and what types of mods?
I have what I call the ‘shotgunnmods DS-1 7 string Humbucker mod’  Catchy eh?  A few years back I heard about the Keeley mods for the DS-1.  So I researched, found out what he did and modded my own.  I loved what it did for my Tele, but it turned my 7 stringers (all loaded w/ humbuckers) into flabby moosh.  So I basically thinned it out a bit so humbuckers won’t sound like butt cheese though it.  I have have some pretty wicked offerings for the Wah pedal as well.

- Are you planning on developing your own pedals at some point?
I actually did design a pedal.  It is a 2 channel Overdrive/Distortion pedal.  Playing off the whole ‘shotgunn’ thing I planned (and still do intend to…) call it the ‘Double Barrel’.  There is another company that has a dual O.D pedal called the double barrel.  I was so bummed to find that out.  Essentially I took the preamp of my favorite S.S. amp, modded it and added another several gain stages to really take it over the top.  I also have some different clipping options available by flipping a 3 -way toggle switch.

- How does the future of pedal development look to you? Has everything been done?
To me the future is bright.  As long as there are guys like me who are NEVER satisfied there will be PLENTY cool new ideas.  My dad always complains about how ‘critical’ my ear is.  If nobody had a super critical ear there would be no new advancements in sound.  If everyone were ‘content’ there would be no drive to compel us to create something better.  I, for one, will NEVER be satisfied.  Perhaps for a short while, but never indefinitely.

If you’re interested in the Electro-Harmonix Micro Synth mod or want to check out his other mods, please visit his web site. shotgunnmods is also on Facebook so be sure to ‘like’ the page to keep up to date with his mods or other offerings!

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May 19 2011

Guest Post – Lucas Hoelbling – MOM-D

Below is a guest post by Lucas Hoelbling. He was kind enough to send me a post about his journey of pedal building and about some upcoming pedals he’s developing. As a guy who dabbles in circuits and such I felt this was pretty inspiring. If you are interested in guest posting or submitting a guest review, please contact me!

MOM-D - LogoHi! I’m Lucas Hoelbling, 17 years old and I live in Carinthia, Austria. I got the idea of making guitar and bass pedals in school. I go to school in the HTL Moessingerstrasse here in Carinthia. There I take telecommunications and electronics classes. I always was more a fan of the analog stuff like transistors, opamps and so on than the digital stuff like microcontrollers and stuff. So a friend of mine thought we would do something different with the knowledge that is given to us in school and design our own guitar and bass pedals! The previously mentioned friend, who also happens to be a bass player, has this crazy rig of effects that I always was fascinated with. So one day when I was bored I got on the PC and got basic knowledge how the different types of pedals work. After a little more research I really thought everything you can do in a pedal has already been done. I literally thought I would never be able to create something new and my pedals would always be referred to some other pedals. So days went by and I always found new schematics, plans and layouts of the pedals that everybody has heard of. Then I suddenly got the idea of a new, different kind of pedal. So I drew a basic sketch of how it should work. The next day I showed it to my electronics teacher and he did a few changes but approved it. I was stoked and could not wait to build it. The next day I got home from school and ordered the stuff I needed.

MOM-D - The Crew
A few days later I had already designed a logo, thought of programming an own website for it and the parts I ordered finally arrived. I immediately started soldering and fifteen minutes later it was done. The next day I gave it to my friend to test it. It was not working. I really felt sad and tried to find the error. I simulated the circuit on the PC and everything was working properly. I double checked the circuit of the pedal multiple times. It just was not working. The reason was that in the simulation all the components are in perfect environment, not influencing each other and not heating up… so basically in real life it would never be able to work. Basically I’m discovering all the problems that other pedal builders already fixed. But I like it this way, so I can get to my own solutions. I am currently working on version 5 of the pedal that is called MOM-D – The GMOO. It is basically a distortion pedal with adjustable cut-off times and switchable FX-Loop that gives you more crazy noises.

MOM-D - The GMOO
A big problem or advantage for me is that I am a little perfectionist in such things. If that pedal does not have the sound I want it to have it’s not going to be sold. So for now I have multiple pedals in development- The GMOO, The TremoloOo, The MOM-D WaveFun, and a simple booster but I don’t have a name for it yet. Available to order are only two pedals by now. The MOM-D LÖÖPER, a completely customizable A/B Line selector. The second pedal, which is not really a pedal, is the MOM-D Kraftwerk (translated it means Powerplant). It’s also a completely customizable power supply for your pedals/pedalboard. I am currently giving away one of those two pedals to one lucky person that likes my MOM-D Facebook page.

The idea behind all my pedals is that they are completely customizable. That means if you want a LÖÖPER with three FX-Chains with a volume knob for every chain and no tuner output you can have it. If you just need a box that switches between your amps or mutes your signal or really anything- you can ask for it. If you need a Kraftwerk for your pedalboard that consists out of 20+ pedals you get it. If you just need a little no-noise power supply for your 3 pedals you can have it too. Just shoot me an e-mail telling me what you imagine and we can work something out for sure ( momddotpedalsatgmaildotcom )

I really think there has to be a change in the industry. They really should make pedals more custom. Also I want to say that all the parts I use to build my stuff are bought in my local electronics shop. It’s called Drauelectronic and I really love to support them because they are a really personal and small business. The owner of the shop has known me since I was six years old so we get along pretty good. I also try to sell my products as cheap as possible. That means I just calculate the costs of the parts I need plus a small fee for the power I use to run my soldering iron and the solder I need. So for every product there are around 5-10€ that are really for me. That money I use to develop more pedals and build prototypes.

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