Nov 12 2011

Keith McMillen Batt-o-Meter

Keith McMillen Batt-o-MeterOkay, so a friend of mine pointed this cool tool to me. It’s the Keith McMillen Batt-O-Meter. In a nutshell, it’s a battery tester, but why I’m bringing this up.. it’s super convenient with pedals and active pickups. Basically plug in the 1/4″ jack into the pedal and it will tell you the status of your battery. Don’t have to take the battery out, etc. As you can see… very cool.

Here is the official description of the Batt-O-Meter:

The Batt-O-Meter from Keith McMillen Instruments is the first battery tester for musicians. Test the remaining hours of battery life and voltage of 9 volt batteries while they are still inside gear through a 1/4-inch plug. The Batt-O-Meter works with almost any active instrument pickup or effects unit (stompboxes and other floor effects) that requires a 9 volt battery to operate, and is turned on when a standard 1/4-inch cable is plugged into it. The Batt-O-Meter works by automatically placing the battery under an appropriate load to simulate real world usage. A micro-processor within the unit allows the device to intelligently determine the different loads that can be put on the battery and calculate the power in hours remaining. This eliminates the need for extra buttons and adaptors, and makes the Batt-O-Meter simple to use. The Batt-O-Meter can test stand-alone batteries: 9V, 1.5V (AAA, AA), and 3V. It works with Alkaline, Rechargable, and old school Carbon-Zinc batteries. The Batt-O-Meter requires its own 9 volt for operation, which it can self-test. Located in Berkeley, California, Keith McMillen Instruments (KMI) is an intimate company that makes innovative technology for string instruments. A portion of each KMI sale is donated to the BEAM Foundation for research and provide commissions for new musical works. Visit www.Batt-O-Meter.com for more product information, including videos, documentation and support.

Also, here is a great video showing it’s capability:

You usually see this tester in the $30-$40 range, but I found it on Amazon for only $19.87!!! That’s a great deal.

Popularity: 3%

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Nov 9 2011

Interview with Blake Studdard of Mammoth Electronics

For a while there, I was REALLY into working on pedals. Unfortunately, my work has really consumed my available pedal time, and that is something that is getting on my nerves, and something that will hopefully change soon. My bench is right next to my office, so I’m always reminded about how much I enjoy working on pedals for my music buddies out there. Working on pedals is very empowering. It’s a good feeling to ‘fix’ something … in this ‘throw away’ mentality these days. Once you know how to fix things, the requests start pouring in from friends with broken footswitches and wiring.

Interview with Blake Studdard of Mammoth Electronics
Then the next logical step is to build something. Probably from a kit but you might be get into breadboarding, etc. Playing with circuits is fantastic. Seeing cause-and-effect and being able to manipulate it by experimentation. Very cool. When you work with pedals one of the big challenges is sourcing parts. It can be a pain, especially if you’re working on vintage circuits and trying to find compatible values to those older schematics. Availability and pricing can be an issue too. Personally, I’ve been buying parts from several electronic sites, but it was really great to see Mammoth Electronics.

Mammoth Electronics is a great new site for providing pedal parts out there. They also offer kits and offer some services such as silk screening and enclosure drilling. I had a chance to send some questions to Blake, President of Mammoth Electronics:

What inspired you to start Mammoth Electronics?
Playing in numerous bands and the local studio scene, I was a gear-head and effects-junky from pedals to rackmount gear, and began trying to build my own pedals with alot of trial and error. I found that there was a tremendous amount of knowledge out on the web and in forums and blogs, but it was hard to find a parts source that was reliable, consistent and easy to navigate so I thought, “maybe i should do that.”

How long has Mammoth Electronics been in business?
It will be 2 years this December.

Where are you located? Is this a web shop only? Or do you have a brick and mortar presence as well?
We are centrally located in Oklahoma USA and we are not currently open to the public, but possibly one day. We shall see?!

What separates you from the other electronic component or pedal part outfits out there?
There are some great companies that are out there and each offers a unique selection of parts and knowledge. What we offer is a seamless and easy-to-navigate shopping experience with a large selection of enclosures, colors and drill-layouts as well as great sounding DIY pedal kits and all the supplies necessary to build high quality and great looking pedals. While we are geared toward the DIY guys and small-run manufacturers, we have a deep inventory to efficiently supply larger pedal, audio and amp manufacturers.  Consequently,  because of our bulk purchasing with suppliers, weare able to pass on the price savings to our smaller customers so everybody wins.

How is the world of DIY/MIY and boutique builds? Is the field growing and the demand rising?
The demand is there and growing. With knowledge and parts becoming more available, we are seeing a large number of new-to-the-market customers. Alot of guys want the experience of literally “building” and “crafting” their own sound. They want to put their signature audio circuit into a box that they can customize with paint color, knobs and artwork and put on display for others to see and hear. It’s a satisfying experience to hear another performing musician play a lick through an effect pedal that you built and to know you had a piece in that. Some customers have the ambition of selling thousands of units a year and others simply want to build a few units a year. I think the other driving factor for the DIY community has been the downturn in the economy and the subsequent effect on peoples wallets.  Why pay $200 for an overdrive pedal when you can easily build it yourself for 1/3 of the price and as a plus, you get the ability to choose the size of the enclosure, color of enclosure, color of LED and the type of knobs? The DIY effects market just makes sense in a cash-strapped economy.

Do you offer some vintage NOS components?
We have some vintage NOS stock. We have been asked to carry more and from time to time we will bring in some vintage parts, especially chips. We get alot of requests for old Bucket Brigade chips, but since there is a surplus of counterfeits out there, we are careful what we bring into our stock.

With the limited supplies of vintage transistors and capacitors, etc., are there *really* comparative components that can achieve same/similar tones?
Absolutely. To the average consumer, most wouldn’t be able to tell the difference in vintage transistors and caps. It is sweet every once in a while when you hear a vintage mullard yellow-jacket OC44 next to a clone or cross-part. Nothing really compares to the old stuff and if price is not in the equation, then by all means, get the old stuff. But, we’ve tried to do our best to partner with manufacturers that are still making replicas to the same specifications of the old stuff. We carry the CoolAudio Bucket brigade delay chips that have replaced the old Panasonic BBD. We also carry a line of germanium and silicon transistors that are made to the original mullard spec by a North American military transistor manufacturer.

What are the components you see flying off the shelf at a regular basis?
Our customers really like our 3PDT (true bypass) foot switches as well as our micro toggle switches. Alot of the switches out on the market are China junk, but our supplier, 4Site Electronics, makes some high quality switches. Our enclosures are a big seller as well. The ability to customize drilling and powder coat and still ship same or next-day makes it really favorable for our customers that want a high quality enclosure with a quick turnaround. Consumables are another big one. We sell alot of wire, solder and bare circuit boards.

What is the most popular enclosure out there in demand? Any reasons why?
The 4S125B, 4S1590B and 4S1590BB are the big sellers and recently the 4S1590BBT (Taller version of the 1590BB) are selling very consistently. Some builders want to maximize real estate on their pedal boards so they opt for the smaller 4S1590B, some want the ability to put 10 toggles and potentiometers in a single box so they will stuff them into a 4S1590BB or 4S1590BBT. For alot of our beginner DIY guys, we recommend the larger enclosures (4S125B and 4S1590BB) simply because it is easy to maneuver the components and wire inside the enclosure.

Do you offer enclosure painting.. or silkscreening?
Yes. We do offer powder coating and silkscreening.

Do you offer pre-drilled enclosures?
Yes, we have a huge selection of pre-drilled options and are always adding more at our customers’ requests.

For people interested in pedal building, kits are a great way to get started. Do you offer any kits? If so, what kit do you recommend for someone interested in building?
For a first-time / beginner build, the Stage 3 Booster is very simple and sounds incredible. After that, the Hot Chilicon Fuzz, the ODC Overdrive and the EA tremelo are very simple builds with dynamic audio quality.

Do you offer any give aways (ie: components, enclosures, kits, etc?)
Multiple times a week, we have awesome giveaways, from effects pedals and kits to parts and enclosures. Our facebook page is the place to be to find out about the giveaways and its super easy to win. We also have daily deals that occur multiple times per week and its a great opportunity to pickup some great parts at a ridiculously low price.

Anything new coming down the pipe that you’re excited about?
The pipeline is definitely full with new and exciting products.  We have some new kits that are coming in the next few months, including a delay. In response to our Amplifier guys, we are going to be bringing on a full line of caps, transistors, resistors and pots as well as the hardware, boards, sockets and consumables. There are a few other irons in the fire that I’m not at liberty to discuss, but I am certainly excited about the direction Mammoth is heading and the community of engineer-artists that we get to partner with.

Please check out Mammoth Electronics at their website and like them on Facebook!

Popularity: 6%

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Jun 28 2011

Joe Strummer Telecaster pickup swap out

I was working on a fun project for a friend of mine. My friend had a Joe Strummer Fender Artist Series Telecaster, but he was unhappy with the pickups. We talked about pickups over a year ago, so I contacted Brian at Porter Pickups and he hooked me up with a Standard Telecaster set. My friend and myself were excited to get them in.

A few nights later he swung by my house to get them installed. I’ve installed humbuckers in various guitars, and swapped out pickups on my Stratocaster, but this would be my first Tele job. I was psyched to work on something different, so this was a great opportunity. When learning something new, I find doing a search first on YouTube to be very handy. I found this great video to keep me out of trouble when taking apart the Tele by SeymourDuncanChannel:

What I liked about the video, was the experience this guy showed. When you do things more often, you usually tend to learn to do it faster and better and avoid common mistakes that would make you back track or slow down. His first point was using a set of digital calipers. I love my calipers, and if you don’t own one, you should really think about it. Totally removes the guess work.. in just about everything. I love my calipers! To remove the bridge plate, you need to push the saddles forward so the screws can be removed. By measuring and writing down the values of the saddles, it’ll get you back in the game as far as intonation goes when you put bridge back. Again, smarter vs. harder. I love it. He also talks about using something to cover your work area on the guitar so you don’t mare the guitar when unscrewing/screwing screws. Definitely important to not cause damage when you’re trying to actually fix something.

The telecaster swap out was easy, but it is definitely more involved than a Stratocaster. There are more pieces to remove and is more difficult getting the wires routed, but overall, it was easy. The first step for me was to replace the neck pickup. I took note of what lug the signal lead was connected to the switch and where the ground needed to be connected. After completing that, I went to the bridge. The original bridge had a two connections for ground. One to the bridge plate and that hopped to the main ground connection, so I connected the ground of the pickup to the bridge plate connection.

Once everything was soldered, I tested. I think it’s pretty critical to test before everything is locked down! Pretty obvious right?  After getting the pickguard re-secured. I tested again. After adjusting pickup heights and securing the bridge plate, I tested again. I wanted to make sure that I did not break a connection during the reassembly, and if I did, I would probably have an idea as to what caused it.

Below is a photo of the Telecaster with the pickguard, bridge plate and pickups removed.

Joe Strummer Telecaster pickup swap out

Here is a photo of the completed pickup swap out with new Porter Pickups

Joe Strummer Telecaster pickup swap out

So we plugged this guy into my amp, and pickups sound AWESOME. If you’re looking for swapping out your pickups, I would highly recommend contacting Porter Pickups. Hot damn.

Popularity: 4%

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Jun 4 2011

Line 6 Footswitch Modification/Replacement Tutorial

Line 6 Footswitch Modification/Replacement TutorialA few days ago I posted about the Line 6 M5 Stompbox modeler. On Facebook, there was one mention of how the footswitches were really not that great. Basically spring switches making direct contact to switch pad on the circuit board. Seems like problems could crop up with this, and could be an explanation as to why my Line 6 DL4 has been acting up.

After that comment, another user mentioned that he swapped out his footswitches and his pedals are working fine now. He provided a great link to a video where Juffage breaks down a Line 6 DL4 and shows step by step how to replace these spring switches with momentary switches. This would apply to other Line 6 boxes like the M5… but please… proceed at your own risk.. and know your limitations and capabilities before attempting.

 

Popularity: 6%

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Nov 25 2010

Ernie Ball Volume Pedal Repair

Ernie Ball Volume Pedal Cord & Spring KitIt’s been a little while since I’ve had a post related to repair, modification or build, so I found a interesting one that some of you might like. It’s the procedure on how to replace the spring/string for Earnie Ball Volume Pedals. Sometimes the strings break on this unit after long use, and it’s a simple repair. When I say simple, the procedure is easy but the actual work can be frustrating, since you’re working in tight quarters.

This if for the Ernie Ball Passive Volume pedals. You will need to purchase the Ernie Ball Volume Pedal Cord & Spring Kit ($3.99).

Below is a video by Battleofthebands featuring Ernie Balls’ engineer Drew Montell on how it’s done.

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Popularity: 4%

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Oct 28 2010

Amazon 25% Off Soldering Equipment

Amazon - 25% off soldering equipmentSo, I just got an email letting me know that Amazon is having a sale… 25% off soldering equipment. So I figured there were a few guitar effects nerds like me out there, that may need to upgrade a soldering iron or score a new tip or two. Looks like they have a few soldering irons (Weller, Sinometer, Mastech, etc) and a few other items like Heat Guns, Desoldering Wicks, Tips, Stands, etc.

If you’re needing some gear, check this page out.

Popularity: 8%

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Feb 18 2010

Replacing ICAR Tapered Pot in Fulltone Clyde Wah

For today’s post, I thought I would do a post on how I replaced the wah pot in a Fulltone Clyde Wah. In the process of finding a replacement, I definitely learned a lot about the Fulltone Clyde. At Fulltone’s site they have a replacement pot available, but no way to ‘order’ it direct. I sent them a email but didn’t hear back immediately, so I started to do some research. I found out that Fulltone use to sell these pots, but stopped. Apparently there were a lot of people switching out pots for a few bucks and getting something close to the Clyde. I also read that they quit shipping them all together and you need to send in the broken unit. That was a deal breaker for me, so I was off to find a replacement.

After doing some research about the original Vox Clyde McCoy wahs, I saw that it’s a very ‘special’ pot that is required. Builders like Fulltone and Teese have contracted out to pot manufacturers to create pots to match their exact specifications, so it’s not as simple as finding a pot with the same resistance and dropping in there. Basically, the pot is a 100k ICAR tapered pot. You can find various pots on eBay as well as other retailers. I hear the pots commonly found on eBay ‘work’ but don’t sound as good. I also found that Area 51 was  selling CTS ICAR tapered pots so I purchased on from there.

The next day, I received an email from Fulltone saying that they would send me a pot, but I needed to email/fax a proof of billing or send a photo of the wah. I didn’t have the receipt, so I took a photo of the wah with a piece of paper where I signed my name and dated the paper. No problems.. and the pot was on the way. I was happy to get a Fulltone replacement, so I’ll be saving the CTS ICAR pot from Area 51 for another wah project down the road.

Here is a photo of the wah opened u. My two new pots. The one with the dust cover is the Area 51 pot, and the one right of it is the Fulltone replacement pot.

For me to do this replacement, I need to desolder the original connections. I have a little solder bulb (not sure if that’s what you call it) for sucking the wet solder and a hot soldering iron.

I used some colored alligator clips to help me remember what wire goes where and desoldered the connections. I also moved the loop (loop provides tension against the rack) away from the rack (rack is the straight gear).

I then used a wrench to loosen the nut locking the pot in place and replaced it with the new pot. The photo below is the new pot locked in place and ready for soldering. Tighten the pot tight, but not too tight to damage the pot.

Here is a shot of the new pot with wires soldered into place. It’s important to use a HOT iron and to create good solder connections!

The next steps are pretty important. Depress the wah so the pot is cranked to full treble  and match the gear to the rack, but ‘click’ the wah. If you set it to the max without accounting for the footswitch, every time you’re clicking the wah on or off, you’re damaging the pot by forcing it to go beyond what it’s capable of doing. Once the gears are lined up, position the loop to press against the rack and tighten it.

That’s basically it. Slap the cover back on and give it a spin. Overall, it sounded real close to the other Clyde Wah I happen to have. It’s interesting how different components can color the tones differently, and I’ll be writing another post about this down the road. Hope this helps!

Popularity: 13%

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Oct 22 2009

How to Modify Guitar Pedals: A complete how-to package for the electronics newbie on how to modify guitar and bass effects pedals

Hold on… whoa.  Okay, I’m what you call a closet electronics nerd, maybe not-so-much in the closet, but I LOVE to tinker with electronics. The only problem… is that I don’t know what I’m doing. Sure, I know what capacitors, transistors, resistors, LEDs and diodes do and ‘basically’ what they are, but I don’t have the knowledge to go outside the ‘kit’ or the instructions. I also hit walls when things don’t work as they should. But, I do love it, and want to learn more about electronics in general. I think it might be a distant dream of mine to design a pedal or two (or possibly an amp — but I’m afraid to die).

I mentioned the Build Your Own Clone site a few months ago in a post and that totally interested me for sure. I just came across this book at Amazon, which is equally as cool. The book is titled “How to Modify Guitar Pedals: A complete how-to package for the electronics newbie on how to modify guitar and bass effects pedals” and it’s about mod’ing existing pedals. This could be great for opportunity for my broken or under used pedals laying around.

Here is the description from Amazon:

This package will teach you exactly how to modify and custom tailor each of your effects pedals to your needs and tastes. No experience needed! Includes: * Complete details on how to modify OVER 80 DIFFERENT EFFECT PEDALS! * Basic Definitions and Concepts of effect pedals, their circuitry, and mods * “Walkthroughs” of various circuits – what all those parts do, and what you can change it to * Detailed close-up pictures of the pedal’s circuit boards showing where the parts are located * Where to get parts and what kind to get * Download videos included: how to modify effects, how to solder/desolder * All About Components, the different types, and what they do in guitar pedals * How to read and understand schematics * Installing Pots and Switches to control mods * Installing a Pot in place of a Resistor (add your own bass/ mids/ treble controls!) * True Bypass Box Diagram * Most pedals have several different modifications that can be performed, all included!

So, let me hear from the electronic music nerds out there. Any of you building pedals or modifying them?

http://www.effectsbay.com/2009/07/build-your-own-clone-diy-effects-for-guitarists/

Popularity: 32%

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